for me, the millinery was a very natural progression from the work I used to do

—I always find ‘Entertainment’ and ‘Surprise’ as important elements for your collection. Do you consider these elements when you design?

Yes. I like my design to be innovative. I also like to see a show, as a show.
For me I am excited when the show is inspiring and entertaining, so I do in my shows what I would like to go and see myself. They should always be fun and make you smile.

—In Barcelona, we could see series of clothes you design. Do you plan to expand brand as a total fashion brands (millinery to clothing)?

No, not really. My design is all about the head.
The clothes I made for the show came about because I wanted them to be very simple and in the same fabric as the hats, as this was the idea behind the whole collection, to look at technique and structure rather than use different materials.

—How was the response after the collection in London and Barcelona?

The response has been great, I think people like the show, as they are not quite sure what to expect next. Millinery can be so diverse as you are not limited in any way with materials. This is what I love.

—Where do you get inspiration from? What inspire you at the moment?

I have a seed idea for the collection, then usually, I get out of London for a few weeks and as soon as I relax, the collection rolls from there. I usually do a series of drawings with notes on materials, then, while working with the materials the design organically grows from there.
Inspiration at the moment…. Found objects!!! I’m not saying any more.

—Your hats exhibited in Stephen Jones exhibition in V&A museum along with world famous millinery. Did you ever imagine that when you start career?

NO. It is a true honour to be placed with such an amazing set of designers.

—What made you want to become millinery, as you had already been experienced as hairdresser when you start the career?

I loved doing avant-garde hair, and won many competitions doing so, so for me, the millinery was a very natural progression from the work I used to do. With avant-garde hairdressing, it’s like sculpting, so it’s very similar.

—How would you describe your customer?

Anyone who loves them and is inspired by them.
My customer is very varied, from young trendies to grannies!

—Describe your design philosophy

Follow my heart, stay true to my integrity.

—Describe your style in short words

Eclectic, visual, for me!

—What is the most challenging aspect of design?

The sampling, and that’s the bit I love the most. Trying to work out how to make something, and make it as perfect as you can.

HP – http://www.jsmithesquire.com/

(Interview, Text/Masaki Takida, Photography/Takahito Sasaki)