Interview

HARTMANN NORDENHOLZ (En)


“The themes and concepts are the dishes on which you serve the dinner”

-How did you come to establish the label? Why did you start the label together?

We met during our studies at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna, Austria.
We did several little projects together ( one about old blueprinting techniques) and realized, that we have a similar approach to design and the same admiration for high quality.
Our friendship, the good communication and reflexion of each others thoughts is the base of our label.

-What is the role of each designer?

We are both equally involved in the design and working process.
Besides all collection pictures and graphics are done by Agnes.

-Were you interested in fashion while growing up?

No Barbie dressers…

-Please explain about latest 10 A/W collection.

The autumn winter collection 2010/11 is called `Musterung´ and once again
Hartmann Nordenholz plays with the ambiguity or multiple meaning of a word.
`Musterung´ is the German word for markings, meaning the patterns on an animals fur, feathers or skin.
Another meaning is `check up´- a quick glance at someone else’s appearance.

The unique handmade print technique is used to create a geometric pattern, which resembles the rough surface of stones from the Austrian alps.
Draping the dresses became an important part in the collection’s development; the pieces communicate a sculptural feeling: like a sculptor creates with stone, sculptural pieces were designed in fabric.

The raw optic of the print combined with the smooth surfaces of different soft and flowy materials as silks, silk-jersey and cotton create an interesting break.
Starting with a colour-scale of black and grey, the collection was completed with
shades of red and green, being very traditional colours in traditional austrian
costume.

The collection is completed with leather, Loden, handknit and sheep-fur pieces and accessories.
The Loden used for the coat and the cape is a very traditional high quality wool fabric, especially produced in Austria.

-What are the source of inspiration in your fashion and graphic design?

The darkness behind the light

-Do you feel that brand concepts and seasonal themes are important in expressing a collection image?

The themes and concepts are the dishes on which you serve the dinner

-Do you view fashion design as a means of expressing yourself?

It can be only personal

-How would you describe your own style?

Silent

-What does Vienna mean to you and what sort of influence has it had on your creations?

Ambivalence – what´s not killing you, makes you strong.

-Both of you had worked with many designers before launching label. Which designer had a strong influence of your work?

A: A lecture of Geoffrey Beene made me think a lot.
F: There is no direct influence of these designers.

-How would you describe your design philosophy?

One must have a chaos inside oneself to give birth to a dancing star
( Friedrich Nietzsche)

-How would you describe your customer? What do you think your fans seek in your clothing?

Don´t know if they seek, but they find.

-What inspires you at the moment?

A short movie of a spring grassland, moved by the wind, taken during easter-break in Italy.

Interview:Masaki Takida

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